A Neverending Era of Success: Why New Era® Hats Are So Popular (2024)

This year, New Era® turns 104. A hat brand—or any company, for that matter—that is over a century old must be doing something right. And by something right, we mean that the company could be worth as much as US$5 billion following its IPO, which Reuters reports could potentially happen this year.

It’s no wonder why. The Buffalo, New York-based headwear and apparel company is, after all, backed by the National Football League (NFL), Major League Baseball (MLB), and the National Basketball Association (NBA). If that’s not monumental, we don’t know what is.

This might then raise the question: How does a company that predominantly sells hats become this successful and popular? To answer this, we’ll provide an extremely brief 100-year history of the company that will explain why it’s been able to weather many eras and stay relevant in the new.

A (very) brief history of New Era®

The company was started in 1920 by Ehrhardt Koch, who borrowed money from his sister, Rose, to turn his passion for headwear into the New Era Cap Co. in Buffalo, New York. In the first year, the company produced 60,000 Gatsby-style caps from a rented back room.

Fast-forward twelve years. Erhardt’s son, Harold, joined the business and quickly realized that the Gatsby-style hat was losing traction in fashion. Instead, he suggested the company make a foray into a new booming market—professional baseball—by designing the baseball cap.

After an initial release, a design iteration centered around proudly showcasing team logos resulted in the iconic 59FIFTY. They started to get sold in stores, and people wanted a piece of what the baseball stars wore—a sure recipe for success.

But then, in 1996, something iconic happened that catapulted the brand into a new era of success. Film director and passionate New York Yankees fan Spike Lee called New Era®’s now-CEO, Chris Koch, and requested a scarlet Yankees cap to match his red down Yankee jacket.

Spike Lee donning the famous New Era® scarlet Yankees cap.

This was pivotal because, back then, baseball caps were only made based on exactly what the players wore on the field. There had never been a Yankee cap made in a color other than navy. Moreover, Yankee fans associated red with the Boston Red Sox, a rival baseball team.

But alas, after Koch obtained special permission, the cap was made, and Lee wore it to game three of the 1996 World Series in Atlanta. Consequently, everyone started to want their color to support their team, and that changed the landscape permanently.

Since then, New Era® has collaborated with multiple celebrities and individuals with cultural cache to solidify the brand’s place in popular American fashion.

As photographer and film director Jonathan Mannion said in an interview with Hypebeast, “I think how New Era® caps weave into culture so authentically is because they touch on things that people love…they love to support their teams…they love to support where they’re from.”

Iconic New Era® Hat Models

Now, let’s take a look at iconic models that have allowed New Era® to rest on the crowns of heads all around the world.

59FIFTY

Debuting in 1954, the 59FIFTY has become a true classic. Still sported by Major League Baseball players today, this hat retains its original design with a focus on simplicity and quality.

The 59FIFTY features a clean silhouette with six panels and a flat visor. Unlike some baseball caps, it doesn’t have an adjustable strap at the back, relying instead on a precise sizing system in eighths of an inch (or one-centimeter) increments for a perfect fit.

Made with a meticulous 22-step process, mostly by hand, the 59Fifty is built to last. This craftsmanship ensures the cap retains its shape, even with wear.

9FIFTY

Unlike the 59FIFTY, which comes in specific sizes, the 9FIFTY is a snapback cap. This means it has an adjustable strap at the back for a one-size-fits-most approach. There is no need to worry about finding the perfect fit—the strap, with its interlocking notches, lets you adjust the size for maximum comfort.

9FORTY

While the 59FIFTY and 9FIFTY feature flat visors, the 9FORTY offers a sportier look with curved brims. This creates a smooth silhouette, flowing from front to back. Plus, the structured front panel helps the hat retain its shape over time. If you’re looking for an even more athletic option, the mesh trucker style would be right up your alley.

9THIRTY

Unlike the structured 9FORTY, the 9THIRTY offers a relaxed fit with a soft, unstructured crown. This is because it removes the core panel found in the 9FORTY. With a shallower design than the 59FIFTY, the 9THIRTY creates a casual silhouette perfect for everyday wear.

It comes in a one-size-fits-most design with an adjustable strap back for a comfortable fit on heads ranging from 56.8 cm to 60.6 cm.

9TWENTY

The 9TWENTY is a casual, relaxed-fit cap. It shares some features with the 9FORTY and 9THIRTY hats, but with a lower profile thanks to its shallower crown. The lack of a stiffening core on the front makes it comfortable and soft.

While most 9TWENTY hats come in one size (adult size), some models offer adjustability with either a strapback closure or a snapback closure. There’s also a “long visor” option with a brim that extends 10mm further out than the standard visor.

Knit Cap (Beanie)

New Era® also offers a popular line of knit hats, including the classic beanie. Beloved by skaters and beyond, the beanie features a ribbed design for a comfortable, stretchy fit that’s soft on the head.

If you’re interested in getting a New Era® cap for yourself, we’ve taken the liberty of curating a small selection of pieces from the SNKRDUNK App that we think you might like. The SNKRDUNK App carries a lot more, of course, so feel free to head there to see what other awesome New Era® pieces we carry.

Kith x STAR WARS Logo New Era 59FIFTY Low Profile “Black”
Style Code: 123098
Release Date: 4 May 2023

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9FIFTY DOWNTOWN x New Era Katakana Logo “Black”
Style Code: 118607
Release Date: 4 Apr 2023

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See Also

Hat Size Guide

NEW ERA BTS x MLB Black Swan New York Yankees 9FORTY “Black”
Style Code: 76950
Release Date: 13 May 2023

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NEW ERA 9THIRTY Wildside Yohji Yamamoto WS “Black”
Style Code: 121219
Release Date: 19 Apr 2023

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NEW ERA x Chiikawa 9TWENTY Katakana “Pink”
Style Code: 185922
Release Date: 23 Jan 2024

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Supreme New Era Box Logo Beanie “Dark Pine”
Style Code: 106468
Release Date: 10 Dec 2022

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