What Volume of Developer is Best? (2024)

FAQs

What Volume of Developer is Best? ›

If you're using semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color, you'll need a developer with a lower volume, between 3 and 20 Vol. If you're using a permanent hair color, you'll need a developer with a higher volume. This is usually between 20 and 30 Vol.

20 volume is the highest level of developer that should be used on the scalp with bleach as the scalp produces more heat and increases the power of the developer. 30vol developer is ideal for lifting 3 levels using permanent hair color depending on the texture and natural depth of the hair.

The most common volumes of developer are 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. The volume relates to the strength of the developer, meaning the higher the number, the stronger the volume. 10 volume developer is commonly used with toners, while 20 and 30 are two of the volumes recommended for at home use.

10 Volume is only used to open the cuticle layer so the color molecules deposit in the cortex for long-term results. Use 20 Volume when lifting hair color one or two levels (levels refer to the oxidizing potential).

Typically, Kenra Color recommends 20 Volume Developer for gray coverage. We do not recommend 10 Volume Developer for covering grays as 20vol has a higher concentration of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to open the cuticle more for lift and deposit.

Thirty volume should never be used for basic deposit only color as it will blast the cuticle for no reason. When used with bleach and foils 30 volume works fast and may incur the risk of over-processing. This developer is more ideal for open-air processing which incubates less heat.

20 volume hair developer

It won't lighten your hair much, but it will help the hair dye to better penetrate the hair shaft and result in longer-lasting, more vibrant color. 20 volume developer is also a good option if you're looking to cover up some gray hair.

Using too much 20 volume developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a tie-dye gone wrong.

If your client's hair is blonde (level 7 and higher) aim at between 15-20 minutes using 20 Vol developer. If your client's hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at around 30 minutes using 30 Vol developer.

20 Volume (6%) Developer

A Volume 20 developer is also a common strength for mixing with bleach because it provides 2-3 levels of lift, which is enough to lighten dark brown hair. It will take you to a medium blonde hair color if your current hair color is light brown.

How do I know if I should use 10 or 20 developer? ›

Use 10 Vol for tone down coloring and level-on-level coloring. Use 20 Vol if you are aiming for a 1-2 level lift (and if you have grey hair that needs covering). Use 30 Vol if you are aiming for a 2-3 level lift. Use 40 Vol if you are aiming for a 3 level lift and if the hair is particularly difficult to color.

10 volume developers contain 3% hydrogen peroxide. These developers are also called no lift developers because they only provide moderate lift to your cuticles, i.e., lift by 1 level. This developer is perfect for when you are going to color your hair a darker color than the natural shade.

27 Vol Developer to Cover Stubborn Greys

It has a bit more lifting power than our standard 20 vol developer, and it can lift the tighter outer cuticle layer of stubborn greys. Use a colour blended with a 27 vol developer on your roots only.

Will a 30 Vol developer used by itself lighten my hair? The release of oxygen will indeed allow the hair to lighten. And 30 Vol will definitely do this to a greater extent than 20 Vol. But we don't recommend that you apply just developer to the hair.

40-volume developers contain 12% hydrogen peroxide. These lift your hair up at least 8 levels! This developer is not appropriate for at-home use at all, unless you are a hair coloring professional, because this developer can cause serious damage to your scalp and your hair.

“Using different developers is key, and a HUGE pro tip to keep the red from going too dark, and old highlights from absorbing too much pigment,” explains Jill, who uses 20 volume on virgin hair, and 25 – 30 volume on previously highlighted hair.

How long should I leave the bleach on the hair? If your client's hair is blonde (level 7 and higher) aim at between 15-20 minutes using 20 Vol developer. If your client's hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at around 30 minutes using 30 Vol developer.