WHEN A QUICHE BECOMES A TORTA (2024)

A dense, creamy filling and crisp shell are the qualities that made the quiche a ubiquitous dish in the '70s. Unfortunately, it was just as often heavy, soggy and too rich for comfort.

The idea of a savory pie is still great. It just needs updating. Introducing the torta, an Italian picnic tart. Like a quiche, it uses a combination of eggs, cheeses and vegetables in the filling. It can have a pastry crust but more often uses a sturdy yeast dough for a base.Unlike a quiche, it is indestructible. You can take it on spring picnics, to baseball games or to the office. It can be eaten warm or at room temperature but should be refrigerated for long-term storage. You'll often see it layered so the color of each ingredient is displayed in each slice. But if you take a mixture of greens, eggs and cheese and blend them together, the result can be just as attractive.

The following recipe, spinach-ricotta bread, was inspired by a recipe in Evan Kleiman's book, ``Angeli Caffe Pizza Pasta Panini,' (William Morrow & Co., 1997). According to Kleiman, Italian home cooks use spinach so often they have a centrifuge device for getting rid of excess liquid. You can wring the spinach dry.

SPINACH-RICOTTA BREAD

Dough:

1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast (about envelope)

1/4 cup warm water

1/2 cup tepid water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 3/4 to 2 cups bread flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

Filling:

1 bunch spinach, washed, dried and stemmed (4 cups)

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 cup ricotta cheese

3 eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons whipping cream or half and half

1/4 cup grated Asiago cheese

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

To prepare dough, dissolve yeast in cup warm water for 5 minutes. Stir in tepid water and oil.

In mixing bowl, stir together 1 cups flour and salt. Pour in yeast mixture and stir to form dough. Add enough remaining flour to make soft, slightly sticky dough. Turn out onto floured board and knead 10 minutes. Place in oiled bowl, turning once to coat with grease. Cover with towel and let rise in warm place 1 hour.

Punch down dough. Reserve about one-fifth of dough. Roll out remainder to 11-inch circle. Ease into oiled 8-inch cake pan. Cover with towel. Set aside 40 minutes for dough to rise.

Meanwhile, to prepare filling, place spinach in medium pan and sprinkle with a little water. Cover and cook over medium heat until spinach is limp, but bright green in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Watch carefully so it doesn't burn. When cool enough, remove spinach from pan and squeeze dry by hand. Place on cutting board and chop or slice into bite-size pieces.

Place spinach in bowl along with onion, ricotta cheese, beaten eggs, cream, Asiago cheese, salt and pepper. Spoon filling into crust, spreading out with back of spoon. Roll reserved dough into 4 thin, 8-inch-long strips. Place 2 strips vertically across topping. Place remaining 2 strips horizontally across to form a grid. Pinch ends of strips to edges of crust to seal.

Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour or until crust is nicely browned and filling is set. Test filling by inserting knife into center of bread. If it comes out clean, it's done. Cut into quarters to serve. Makes 4 snack or 3 entree servings.

Note: If bread begins to brown too much before it's done, place sheet of foil over pan. Wrap leftovers in foil and freeze. Defrost in refrigerator and toast in preheated 325-degree oven 5 to 10 minutes before serving.